two shallow creeks flow together amid forested hills. a black iron railroad trestle spans the creek, over 100 feet above the water.

Riley and Hines Creek meet just upstream of the Alaska Railroad Trestle. Bridges now span each creek, allowing visitors to hike toward Triple Lakes, one of the longest trails in Denali. Not far from this confluence existed one of the first year-round communities in this area, known as McKinley Station. The small community boasted a hotel, post office, school, and numerous homesteads. Some McKinley Station residents used Riley Creek to hunt and trap. Alaska Natives likely used the creeks for similar purposes, although more evidence of Alaska Native use can be found on larger drainages to the west, such as Teklanika River, as well as the Dry Creek area in Healy, to the north.  Hines Creek, after the 1917 creation of Mount McKinley National Park, became the easiest way for early tourists to travel into the newly established park, until construction of the park road began in the 1920s.

Hines Creek

Confluence of Riley & Hines Creeks

The visitor center campus is a paved area between three large buildings, all surrounded by skinny spruce trees. The largest building is the Denali Visitor Center, spanning two stories. About fifty yards away is a similarly designed building featuring a gift shop and restaurant. In the distance, mountains are visible.

Primarily open in summer, the area surrounding the Denali Visitor Center features a restaurant, gift shop, trailheads, parking, and, nearby, the Alaska Railroad Depot. The Morino Grill is the only restaurant in the park and offers coffee, grab-and-go food, and hot grill food. Adjacent to it is the Alaska Geographic Park Store, which is the main gift shop in the park. A bag check facility (Baggage Claim) is also available on the campus. Trails from this area lead throughout the entrance area of Denali. A few hiking highlights include the <a href="https://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/horseshoe-lake-trail.htm">Horseshoe Lake Trail</a>, the <a href="https://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/overlook.htm">Mount Healy Trail</a>, and the <a href="https://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/triple.htm">Triple Lakes Trail</a>. Or, hike the Rock Creek or Roadside Trail up to the <a href="https://www.nps.gov/places/sled-dog-kennels.htm">Sled Dog Kennels</a> (about 2 miles away). Visitors arriving in Denali by train will disembark nearby at the Alaska Railroad Depot, about 50 yards away from the visitor center campus.

Several one-story buildings amid spruce trees

Denali Visitor Center Campus

Generally open in summer (mid-May to mid-September), the Denali Visitor Center campus is more than just the park's primary visitor center. The Morino Grill and Alaska Geographic Park Store are nearby, as is the Alaska Railroad Depot, which is where passengers can embark on / disembark from the train on its route between Anchorage and Fairbanks.

Location

Denali Park Store & Morino Grill

Among bushes and a few small trees, a roughly ovoid, 4-foot diameter rock sits next to a flag pole painted white. A large wooden sign reads Denali Headquarters, Mile 3.1, Elevation 2,100 feet. Next to this is a parking lot which stretches downhill and away from the flag pole, with spots marked for visitor parking. Just below the parking lot, accessible via steps and a foot path, are numerous brown-painted buildings. Each building has a hand-routered sign over the door, providing it a (sometimes whimsical) name. Most are one-story, although one, signed as the Denali Headquarters office, is two-story. A small amount of employee parking can be found amid the buildings. To the north, a thick forest covers the lower reaches of a large mountain. The mountain itself can be seen stretching for miles to the east and west, forming a large ridgeline. To the south, beyond the buildings, the land is also forested, and drops away into a creek drainage, though the creek itself is too far downhill to be seen. On the far side of the drainage, the land rises again steeply to a forested hill that also stretches east to west for several miles.

Denali's first superintendent, Harry Karstens, moved the park headquarters to this location from its original spot, near Riley Creek. Karstens realized the hillsides are far, far warmer in winter than the creek drainages, and moved park operations up what is now referred to as "Government Hill."   Between 1926 and 1941, the expansion of the Headquarters District occurred with the development of master plans designed by Thomas Vint (chief landscape architect of the NPS Western Office of Planning and Design). The area covers a little under 12 acres, and includes fourteen historical buildings, as well as the sled dog kennels. From 1942 through the 1990s, the Headquarters District evolved with the addition of some new buildings as well as landscape modifications.

puffy white clouds in a blue sky over a ridge dappled with snow

View from HQ

Between 1926 and 1941, the expansion of the Headquarters District occurred with the development of master plans designed by Thomas Vint (chief landscape architect of the NPS Western Office of Planning and Design). The area covers a little under 12 acres, and includes fourteen historical buildings, as well as the sled dog kennels. From 1942 through the 1990s, the Headquarters District evolved with the addition of some new buildings as well as landscape modifications.

Designation

Denali's Historic Headquarters

A paved parking area sits in a sparse spruce forest. Nearby are several timber-framed structures—a covered picnic shelter, and several restrooms. To the north, a line of mountains called the Outer Range run from east to west. To the south, the forest thickens, and the land slopes gently downward for several miles. Far to the south, the sharp peaks of the Alaska Range can be seen, including Denali—a massive snow-white mountain that stands out above all others. A trail leads from the parking area in two directions; south, to a loop trail through the spruce forest, and north, across the Denali Park Road, and up-hill toward the Outer Range. A bulletin board stands between the picnic area and the restrooms, with informational panels that are swapped out seasonally. The panels all say "Welcome to Mountain Vista," and provide a map of trails in the area, as well as a few regulations such as the fact that drones are prohibited; pets must be leashed at all times, and cannot walk on trails (only the park road or in the parking lot); and that, when encountering wildlife, visitors must know how to behave. Around moose, visitors should stay at least 25 yards away and be prepared to run if the moose charges. Around wolves, visitors should stay at least 25 yards away, and be prepared to scare away a wolf that approaches too closely, by shouting or throwing (non-food) objects at it. Around bears, visitors should stay at least 300 yards away, and be prepared to assess its behavior to know how to react. If the bear appears agitated or angry, visitors should cautiously back away while calmly speaking at the bear and avoiding eye contact. Around a bear that is paying no attention to humans, visitors should slowly and quietly back away. At no time should visitors run away from a bear, which is far faster than a person. If a bear contacts a person, the person should curl into a ball, protecting their neck and head with their arms, and play dead; most bear attacks are defensive, and the bear simply wants to ensure you're not a threat to it. Though it is very rare, if the bear had stalked the visitor, or if the bear attack lasts more than a few moments, the visitor must fight back, as the bear may be predatory.

Mountain Vista offers a peek at the peak! Sitting amid spruce trees, 13 miles inside Denali National Park, is Mountain Vista. It is accessible from late winter through fall for private vehicles, and by a free bus from the visitor center in summer. The area offers picnic tables, trail access, and—when skies are clear—a great view of Denali, even though the mountain is over 80 miles away. In summer, it's often far less crowded than nearby Savage River (Mile 15). Near Mountain Vista is Savage River Campground, which typically opens May 20 each year, weather and other factors permitting. Reservations for Savage River can be made via <a href="https://www.reservedenali.com">www.reservedenali.com</a>.

a large picnic shelter near rest rooms in a forest

Mountain Vista Rest Area

13 miles inside Denali National Park, along the park's sole road, is Mountain Vista. It is accessible from late winter through fall for private vehicles, and by a free bus from the visitor center in summer. The area offers picnic tables, trail access, and—when skies are clear—a great view of Denali, even though the mountain is over 80 miles away. In summer, it's often far less crowded than nearby Savage River (Mile 15).

Denali's Mountain Vista

a small bluff overlooking two streams flowing from west to east, where they join near a railroad bridge that towers high overhead.

Although Congress created Mount McKinley National Park (now known as Denali) in 1917, the park had no rangers until 1921. That summer, Harry Karstens arrived, and began the slow, dangerous work of establishing the rule of law in the new park. After a summer of positioning and meeting people, and a long patrol through the park, Karstens began clearing land for his headquarters on the northwest bank of Riley Creek, upstream from the bridge. The location offered an ideal place to monitor people using the trail leading west to the park. Headquarters moved to its current location at Mile 3.4 on the Park Road in 1925.

a log bridge over a creek leading to wall tents and tethered horses

Original Park Headquarters

The park’s first ranger, Harry Karstens, arrived in 1921. After a summer of meeting people, and a long patrol through the park, Karstens began clearing land for his headquarters on the northwest bank of Riley Creek. The location offered an ideal place to monitor people using the trail leading west to the park, but proved to be incredibly cold in winter—which led to its move in 1925, to a hillside offering much milder winter temps!

Original McKinley Park Headquarters

A gently-inclining, paved path leads up from the parking area nearby to a life-sized sculpture of a grizzly bear lying on the ground. The sculpture is large enough for at least two adults to sit next to each other on its back. The sculpture is situated on a paved patio area outside of a large visitor center. Doors into the visitor center are off to one side, and a railing extends around the other side of the area in which the bear is situated. Thick spruce trees surround most of the facility.

The life-size bear sculpture outside the entrance to the Denali Visitor Center is an enlargement of an original eight-inch bronze entitled “Resting Grizzly” (1974) by William D. “Bill” Berry (1926-1979), an Alaskan wildlife artist who worked extensively in Denali from 1954 to 1979. Though the visitor center is open only in summer, visitors may walk up to the scupture any time of year. The original sculpture is a limited edition of 20 bronze reproductions. This eight-foot replica consists of 31 separate castings and became a reality with the help of Alaskan sculptor Skip Wallen. The project, made possible by a gift from Bill’s wife Elizabeth and supported by the Berry family, was installed in September 2012. Learn more about the artist and statue, and <a href="https://www.nps.gov/dena/learn/photosmultimedia/berry.htm">watch the Resting Grizzly live webcam</a>.   <blockquote> “Fox cubs or caribou, his animals are what you’d see — if you could see as clearly, if you had his patience or powers of observation.” <blockquote> — Carla Helfferich, former managing editor for University of Alaska Press </blockquote> </blockquote>

a man and woman smile for a photo while sitting atop a sculpture of a grizzly bear

Resting Grizzly and Visitors

The life-size bear sculpture outside the entrance to the Denali Visitor Center is an enlargement of an original eight-inch bronze entitled “Resting Grizzly” (1974) by William D. “Bill” Berry (1926-1979), an Alaskan wildlife artist who worked extensively in Denali from 1954 to 1979.

Significance

Resting Grizzly

a large gravel parking lot slopes gently downhill toward restrooms and two covered picnic shelters. Farther downhill, a shallow, rapid creek flows from south to north. All around the area is a thick spruce forest. A trail leads upriver along the creek in one direction, while another trail cuts into the forest on the opposite side of the area. A bulletin board stands between the picnic area and the restrooms, with informational panels that are swapped out seasonally. The panels all say "Welcome to Riley Creek," and provide a map of trails in the area, as well as a few regulations such as the fact that drones are prohibited; pets must be leashed at all times, and cannot walk on trails (only the park road or in the parking lot); and that, when encountering wildlife, visitors must know how to behave. Around moose, visitors should stay at least 25 yards away and be prepared to run if the moose charges. Around wolves, visitors should stay at least 25 yards away, and be prepared to scare away a wolf that approaches too closely, by shouting or throwing (non-food) objects at it. Around bears, visitors should stay at least 300 yards away, and be prepared to assess its behavior to know how to react. If the bear appears agitated or angry, visitors should cautiously back away while calmly speaking at the bear and avoiding eye contact. Around a bear that is paying no attention to humans, visitors should slowly and quietly back away. At no time should visitors run away from a bear, which is far faster than a person. If a bear contacts a person, the person should curl into a ball, protecting their neck and head with their arms, and play dead; most bear attacks are defensive, and the bear simply wants to ensure you're not a threat to it. Though it is very rare, if the bear had stalked the visitor, or if the bear attack lasts more than a few moments, the visitor must fight back, as the bear may be predatory.

Just inside the entrance of Denali National Park is a quiet picnic area next to Riley Creek. This is one of the only picnic areas in Denali. It sits amid a spruce forest, and features several covered tables, as well as restrooms. Accessible year-round, two trails lead away from the picnic area; one cuts through the forest to the nearby park entrance sign. The other leads upstream along Riley Creek, eventually connecting hikers either to <a href="https://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/triple.htm">the Triple Lakes Trail</a> or to trails that lead to the <a href="https://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/the-denali-visitor-center.htm">Denali Visitor Center</a>. Near the picnic area is <a href="https://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/campground-riley.htm">Riley Creek Campground</a>, the largest of Denali's six campgrounds, and the only one open year-round.  Be cautious if you hike or play near Riley Creek. It is not particularly deep, but it flows very quickly, and the water is extremely cold. Not far downstream of the picnic area, the creek drains into the Nenana River, which is a very large river that forms the eastern boundary of the park. Do not try to cross or float Riley Creek unless you are experienced with cold, swift water.

a large shelter covering several picnic tables near spruce trees

Riley Creek Picnic Area

Sitting near the entrance to Denali, this is one of the only picnic areas in the park. It rests amid a spruce forest, and features several covered tables, as well as restrooms. Accessible year-round, two trails lead away from the picnic area; one cuts through the forest to the nearby park entrance sign. The other leads upstream along Riley Creek, eventually connecting hikers either to the Triple Lakes Trail or to trails that lead to the Denali Visitor Center.

Located 15 miles inside Denali National Park, Savage River is accessible by bus (summer) or private vehicle (spring, summer, and fall). It is at this point that Denali's sole road changes from pavement to dirt, and traffic beyond the river is only possible by bus or under human power (e.g., bicycle). In summer, rangers are at Savage River throughout most of the day. Several trails in the area offer visitors a chance to go for a short or long hike. All visitors should be wildlife-aware and know how to behave in case of an encounter with a bear, moose or wolf. <h3>Geology</h3> Savage River is one of several braided rivers in Denali that are characterized by transitory channels meandering across wide beds of sediment over time. However this behavior is not the result of glacial melt, as is the case for most braided rivers in the park, because no glaciers remain in the Savage River watershed. Savage River is braided because of high sediment input from brittle rock, and from a relative lack of vegetation stabilizing its headwaters. An important transition zone that illustrates the glacial history of this area is located about halfway between the Savage River vehicular bridge and the Savage River Loop Trail footbridge to the north. Upstream (south) from this point, Savage River runs wide and shallow in a U-shaped valley typical of glacial scouring. Downstream (north), Savage River runs fast and restricted through a V-shaped valley typical of river erosion. Look for these distinctive shapes as you cross the vehicular bridge. While more extensive glaciations have affected the topography of the canyon in the past, they occurred over two million years ago. The river has therefore had substantial time to erode the V-shaped canyon that we see today. The Savage River canyon is one of the few places where erosion has exposed the Yukon-Tanana Terrane bedrock along the road. Take a closer look and you’ll notice large amounts of mica-quartz schist, a shiny rock that gets its sparkle from the flaky mineral sericite and quartz veins. The varieties of metamorphic rock in the Yukon-Tanana Terrane, along with the degree to which they have been folded and faulted, attest to the terrane’s age and dynamic history. Savage Rock, the jagged outcrop that you can walk to just uphill from the Savage River parking lot, is a surprising stumper. Why this outcrop is so prominent compared to its surroundings—despite being made of similar rocks—remains a mystery. One theory is that faulting caused the rock to protrude from the surrounding topography. A second is that it slid down from above. Or Savage Rock could be made of more resistant schist than the surrounding metamorphic rock. Further studies are needed to resolve this enigma.

River and road with mountains in the background and a cloudy sky.

Savage River

Savage River is a beautiful spot along the Denali Park Road, and marks the farthest point into Denali that a visitor may drive their own vehicle in summer.

Denali is six million acres of wild land, bisected by one ribbon of road. Travelers along it see the relatively low-elevation taiga forest give way to high alpine tundra and snowy mountains, culminating in North America's tallest peak, 20,310' Denali. Wild animals large and small roam un-fenced lands, living as they have for ages. Solitude, tranquility and wilderness await.